"Somehow, Joe, I just don't think cocktailing is my thing.

The ascetic vibe of most vegetarian restaurants doesn't lend itself to vivacious cocktailing, which is why Counter, and its un-self-righteous drinks list, feels so refreshing.

Yes, the saloonlike dining room, done up in battered wood, mirrors and marble, is a near-perfect spot for pre-dinner cocktailing and oyster slurping.

The result of this cocktailing of influences is a vastly entertaining album, with lots of spritely guitars (ex-Housemartin Norman Cook was responsible for the mixing) and get-up-and-jig rhythm.

However, still later that evening, after the conversation had turned from the exploits of Romeo to the prerogatives of rank, and cocktailing had gone from social grace to competitive sport, I witnessed Lieutenant Russell do just that.