Now we're going to do a similar exercise for the ribber.

Then bring up every 20th needle on the ribber to working position.

Last month I wrote about the carriage controls on both the main bed and the ribber.

Do the same thing on the ribber bed, starting at the left-hand side.

Using the ribber, there are a lot of steps to go through when knitting.

Silver Reed tell me though that there will soon be a ribber for this machine.

One point to watch with this carriage is that you must have an even number of needles on the ribber bed.

For any standard gauge knitting machine, with or without ribber.

Last month I wrote about setting up the ribber and making sure it was correctly aligned with the main bed.

You place the P carriage on the ribber bed to the left of the knitting and pass it across to the right.

I discovered that if the ribber is on half pitch, the transfer needle doesn't move at all.

A young friend rang up with a query on weights for ribber work.

I told her she must use plenty of weights with the ribber and went back to my knitting.

Return the ribber levers to normal and complete the knitting.

Set both main bed and ribber carriages to knit (Figure 2).

The fabric may also vary according to which colour you choose to knit on the ribber.

The main and ribber carriages are then placed at the end of the needlebed.

This carriage can be set to knit alternate needles on the ribber.

Continue across the ribber bed and again place a purl stitch onto the last needle in working position.

If you own a ribber and colour changer make some double jacquard cards too.

The carriage of this ribber has an extra control, the autoset lever.

Finally, there is the extra ribber carriage, the RJ1.

You must be sure to have an even number of needles on the ribber bed, since the carriage selects every second needle.

Two claw weights at the back of the knitting will help to grip it to the ribber.